The books are well designed. Most of the recipes are accompanied by a full-page photo of the dish shot from above, against a solid colour background that makes the dish pop from the page. It gives the books the feel of an artsy catalogue, encouraging browsing - they could easily double up as coffee table photobooks.
Each recipe gets it own neatly structured page. The wording is clear, to avoid confusion, and concise, to emphasize simplicity. There's plenty of empty space around the text, so the pages don't feel crowded or overwhelming, further reassuring the reader that the recipes are simple and easy to use. It also means there's plenty of room to leave your own notes next to the recipes.
Unfortunately, there is the occasional typo or omission. For example, in the chilli recipe (p36), ground cumin is listed twice in the ingredients, but only used once in the method; the 'shrimp and gritz' recipe (page 56) is described as 'garlicky', but there is no garlic in the ingredients list (though it is easy enough to intuitively add it). These are not grave mistakes but they do bring the quality of the book down a bit.
A minor annoyance is that the page numbers are distinctly absent from the contents pages at the start of each section, which is less than ideal for navigation. It is a curious and unpractical omission, but I expect it made sense from a design perspective, making the contents pages cleaner. The recipes are listed in the order they appear, so it it easy enough to find the recipe you want by flicking through the section. There is also a comprehensive index.
The recipes are all fantastically and deceptively simple, given the quality of the finished dish. All involve whacking a mixture of things into a tin, putting it in the oven, and doing a bit of garnishing at the end. Sometimes you need to make a paste from certain ingredients beforehand, sometimes you need to add things to the tin at different times throughout cooking. You don't learn fancy and challenging cooking techniques from Iyer, but you do learn an awful lot about the wide range of flavours and textures your meals can so easily have.
I am not sure whether this is the fault of the recipes or my oven, but some of the more liquid recipes - for example the Indian Rice Pudding (pg112) - did not cook properly in the time given, or even with extra time, and so I started heating these dishes up to simmering on the hob before transferring them to the oven.
After getting accustomed to Iyer's style, I looked through various famous/popular cookbooks at Waterstones and friends' houses, and in many of them I was struck by the badly worded and overcomplicated recipes, the cluttered and unpleasant pages, and the inconsistent quality of the photography. It made me better appreciate how thoroughly well designed the Roasting Tin books are; they are user-friendly, practical, and aesthetically very pleasing. All those involved in putting these books together should be immensely proud of the results (Pene Parker is credited with the art direction in the acknowledgements - I hope they have an incredible career).
Of the three, the Around the World book has been my favourite, and is the cookbook I would give to anyone wanting to broaden their diet with minimal effort (so long as they were omnivorous and didn't have strict dietary requirements). The recipes are arranged by geographical region, which made it easier for me to flick through to find a recipe that suited what I was feeling, and the sense it gives of exploring the world through food made working through the recipes rewarding and exciting, especially as I encountered dishes and flavour combinations that were new to me.
By contrast, in the Green book, the recipes are organised by Vegan/Vegetarian and then Quick/Medium/Slow, while in the Quick book they are organised into vague categories, such as 'Worknight Dinners' and 'Date Night'. I appreciate that others might benefit from this organisation, but for me the geographical grouping was more inspiring.
Over the past year or so I've made 53/75 recipes in this book, some of them multiple times. The range of flavours and textures in the dishes has completely transformed my appreciation of food and cooking. It is worth mentioning that many of the recipes, having been adapted for oven cooking, are doubtless inauthentic and untraditional, but they thoroughly showcase the range of food flavours available around the world.
Even though my move to making better and more exciting food was a gradual process (which coincided with things like moving to a house with a better kitchen, working more regular hours, learning which foods I have an intolerance for and therefore to avoid, etc), the impact of the three Iyer cookbooks I received for my birthday, and this one especially, has been colossal. The earlier years of my life now seem in retrospect to be a vast culinary desert, and I can barely remember most of what I used to eat.
Some personal highlights from the Around the World tour:
In 'Central and South America' (8/12 recipes made), I had various dishes served in warm tortillas, including a Mexican slow cooked pork pibil (pg26), and smoky roasted sprouts (pg46). I've always thought of sprouts as the grim over-boiled vegetable served at Christmastime due to perverse and masochistic tradition, but Iyer's various roasted sprout recipes have given me a new appreciation of a vegetable I thought I hated.
However, my absolute favourite recipe from this section was the Brazillian black beans & rice with avocado & radish salsa (p30). The fragrancy of the lime and coriander made this very refreshing and lively, while the mix of greens, beans, rice, radish, avocado, and peanut was a textural delight. I made this for an evening meal and then very happily had the leftovers for both lunch and dinner the next day. I felt like I could eat it forever.
In 'USA and the Caribbean' (6/11 recipes made), I was blown away by the Baked polenta with prawns / Shrimp & Gritz (pg56). This dish is so quick and so satisfying: the baked polenta is like a cheesy mash potato cake, and makes a very satisfying combo with spicy seasoned prawns and the explosions of flavour from roasted cherry tomatoes. Baked avocado with walnuts and blue cheese (pg62) made for an extravagant-feeling and intensely flavoured lunch. The sweet and salty dark chocolate S'mores Rocky Road (pg76) was incredible, and quickly devoured when I took it to a work fuddle.
I made all but two of the recipes in 'Asia' (12/14). The jackfruit avial (pg88), mushroom and saffron pilau rice (pg92), spiced paneer and potato curry (pg98), and whole butter chicken (pg104) were standouts. Many of the Indian dishes from this section I served as part of an Indian Feast meal alongside dishes from the previously-reviewed 'Indian Food Made Easy' by Anjum Anand.
From 'Africa and the Middle East' (8/12), highlights included the lamb tagine (pg120) flavoured with orange zest and juice, Ugandan black-eyed beans (pg130), and the saffron pearl barley (pg140). The Persian love cake (pg146) was absolutely demolished and received a lot of compliments when I took it to a work fuddle.
The most recent dish I made from this section was the roasted squash with pomegranate and dukkah (pg138), which was such a delightful mixture of flavours and textures that I am very excited to make it again and for friends. Over the past few weeks I've made several of Iyer's Persian-style dishes, made with pomegranate seeds and molasses, and copious amounts of herbs. The intensity of the flavours - the sweetness, savouriness, and herbiness - has been revelatory.
I made everything except the steal & ale pie (pg160) from 'South East Asia & Australasia' (12/13). This section contains the recipe I first encountered via the Times cutting: Indonesian-style aubergines (pg168), which I've made multiple times and for various friends, many of whom wanted the recipe afterwards.
Other highlights include Malaysian coconut and lemongrass roast chicken (pg158), Peranakan-style mushroom and squash curry (pg164), and roasted aubergine with chilli and peanut (pg154), which is so easy it has become something I make when I 'can't be bothered to cook'. The salted chocolate and raspberry Lamington cake (pg180) was another work fuddle hit.
Highlights from 'Europe and North Asia' (8/13) include the chicken and chorizo paella (pg186), which I made on Boxing Day and would happily eat constantly; croque monsieur gratin (pg194), a savoury French bread and butter pudding made with croissants and an extreme amount of crème fraiche (Iyer says, 'It will look like you have far too much crème fraiche'); rosemary and hazelnut salmon with roast potatoes, asparagus, and lemon yoghurt (pg198); 'porcupine' meatballs (pg200) with rice in the meat mix, served in a tomato and sour cream sauce, which is now my favourite meatball recipe; and the stilton, pear, and walnut tart (pg208), which was another extravagant-feeling and flavoursome lunch.
In the introduction, Iyer says,
'What I wanted to recreate in this Roasting Tin book was that feeling of amazement that I had in trying dishes from abroad for the first time, but presented in a way that was accessible for easy weeknight cooking.'
For this reader at least, Iyer's objective was very thoroughly accomplished.
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